Hanfu 101: Quick introduction to common Hanfu styles

In recent years, the Hanfu culture has experienced an unprecedented surge in popularity. On major social network platforms, Hanfu-themed short videos have become a favorite among netizens, with some exceptional Hanfu videos amassing over a million views. In historically tourist destinations, such as Xi'an, visitors draped in Hanfu are a common sight.

Nonetheless, there are still many people with limited understanding of Hanfu. In this context, we aim to offer a concise introduction to the primary styles of Hanfu.


Qin & Han

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As the first unified dynasty in Chinese history, the clothing system in the Qin Dynasty evolved into the "Shenyi System", characterized by long robes that included both upper and lower garments, secured by a waistbelt. There were minimal gender distinctions, as both men and women wore large-collared narrow-sleeved garments. The difference lay in the material used for waistbands, with men favoring leather and women preferring silk. 

The collars were typically overlapping, with low necklines to reveal the inner garment. When layering multiple garments, each layer's collar would be displayed outside, sometimes reaching up to three or more layers, known as "Triple Clothes". These garments were form-fitting, floor-length, and often had a flared hem, which did not reveal the feet.

The Han Dynasty's attire and headwear system largely followed the Qin Dynasty. However, with the surge in national prosperity and the advent of the Silk Road, Han Dynasty clothing gained a sense of opulence. Embroidery patterns often depicted mountains, clouds, birds, animals, plants, and occasionally incorporated text. Women in the Han Dynasty began wearing two-piece clothing, with various styles of skirts.

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Wei & Jin

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The Wei and Jin Dynasties marked an era with a distinct character, where people pursued freedom, romance, and a penchant for reclusion. Hanfu during this period followed a segmented style. The upper garments were designed to be form-fitting, often featuring waistbands, while the lower garments predominantly consisted of wide and flowing skirts, adorned in soft and elegant colors. This style emphasized loose and wide sleeves, complemented by voluminous sashes, creating a visual semblance to the graceful flight of swallows.

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Tang

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Thanks to an abundance of material wealth, the Tang Dynasty fostered a remarkably open-minded culture, and this spirit of liberation was also reflected in clothing design. Tang Dynasty attire aimed to showcase a free, voluptuous, and plump artistic style, women's attire typically consisted of upper garments like shirts and Ru (a short jacket), paired with lower garments like pleated skirts, and shoulder-attached capes. The color palette for these garments was vivid and vibrant, decorations frequently featured intricate floral patterns.

For most enthusiasts in the Hanfu community, their first Hanfu garment is typically of the Tang Dynasty style. Its opulent appearance, comfortable fit, and flexibility in accommodating different body shapes make it the ideal choice for those embarking on their journey into the Hanfu world.

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Song

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Compared to the splendor of Tang Dynasty Hanfu, the attire of the Song Dynasty embraced a more subtle and refined aesthetic, radiating a timeless and unassuming elegance. From commoners to noble households, women often favored single-layer chest garment, paired with open-crotch trousers or tied short skirts and waist skirts. Occasionally, they also wore long skirts. The chest garment was worn without an upper garment, with only a Pibo (a type of robe) draped over it. This can be considered one of the earliest examples of underwear worn as outerwear.

If you wish to explore a refined, cultured style with a sense of literary grace, then a piece of Song Dynasty Hanfu is undoubtedly the best choice for your summer Hanfu wardrobe.

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Ming

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Ming-style Hanfu deviated from the more open styles of the Tang and Song Dynasties, returning to the earlier practice of cross-collared, right-side-worn upper garments combined with skirts. With this shift toward a more conservative style, the upper garment's length extended, while the exposed skirt's length became shorter. Collars evolved from the opposing collars of the Song Dynasty to predominantly feature round collars.

Ming Dynasty Hanfu was categorized into ceremonial attire and everyday wear. Ceremonial attire encompassed garments like broad-sleeved shirts, phoenix crowns, xiapei (a type of cape), and pibo (outerwear), while everyday wear included shirts, jackets, vest, and various styles of skirts.

While Tang and Song Dynasty Hanfu is ideal for summer, Ming-made Hanfu is the quintessential choice for the autumn and winter seasons.

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Modern

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During the Republican era, the prevailing style of clothing continued to revolve around upper garments and skirts, though with a more three-dimensional cut and simplified embellishments. Modern Hanfu introduced stand-up collars with a diagonal fastening, and the sleeves, while wide, were relatively shorter.

However, as time progressed, the influence of Western fashion began to permeate Hanfu, leading to the emergence of cheongsam/qipao. The modernized qipao featured a shorter hemline, daring high slits, and a cinched waist. These modifications not only emphasized a woman's natural curves but also showcased slender legs, especially when paired with high heels, exuding a mature and sophisticated allure.

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Hanfu is a vivid representation of traditional Chinese culture, carrying rich historical traditions and cultural symbols. The act of wearing Hanfu itself is a cultural experience that helps in preserving and promoting traditional Chinese values.

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